Jon Boat Livewell Guide: Size, Plumbing and Setup

Jon Boat Livewell Guide: Size, Plumbing and Setup

A jon boat livewell can support tournament fishing, bait storage, selective harvest, and temporary fish care. It also adds water, plumbing, electrical equipment, and concentrated weight to a relatively small hull.

That weight is easy to underestimate. Fresh water weighs about 8.34 pounds per gallon, so a 20-gallon livewell holds roughly 167 pounds of water before adding the tank, pump, fish, hoses, fittings, and mounting structure.

A successful livewell setup must therefore do two jobs at once: maintain suitable water conditions and remain compatible with the boat’s capacity, stability, drainage, electrical system, and trailer.

This guide explains how to plan a portable or built-in livewell for an aluminum jon boat.

Livewell vs. Baitwell

The terms are sometimes used interchangeably, but the intended function can affect the design.

A livewell normally holds caught fish temporarily. It may need enough length for the target species, dependable water exchange, smooth interior surfaces, and sufficient oxygen during warm weather or extended use.

A baitwell holds live bait such as minnows or other small fish. It may prioritize gentle circulation, protected pump intakes, rounded corners, and water movement that does not exhaust delicate bait.

One tank can sometimes perform both functions, but it should be designed around the more demanding use. A small bait container may not provide enough space or water quality for mature fish.

Before choosing equipment, confirm any live-fish, tournament, transport, and harvest rules that apply where the boat will operate.

Start With Real Capacity

A livewell’s listed volume is not the only capacity number that matters. The boat must carry the livewell as part of its total load.

Include:

  • Water

  • Tank or container

  • Fish or bait

  • Fill and recirculation pumps

  • Hoses and fittings

  • Electrical wiring

  • Mounting frame

  • Insulation

  • Batteries

  • Cleaning and treatment supplies

A 20-gallon system can add well over 170 pounds when fully operational. On a small jon boat, that may equal the weight of another adult passenger.

Compare the completed installation with every applicable passenger, payload, and horsepower limit. Do not assume that unused floor space equals unused weight capacity.

Choose Volume for the Fish and Trip

The required livewell volume depends on more than boat length.

Consider:

  • Target species

  • Typical fish size

  • Number of fish

  • Bait type

  • Water temperature

  • Trip duration

  • Whether fresh water can be exchanged

  • Tournament requirements

  • Available battery capacity

  • Remaining boat payload

Crowding causes water quality to deteriorate more quickly. Warm water holds less dissolved oxygen, while fish stress and waste increase demand on the system.

A larger tank provides more water volume but adds considerable weight and consumes valuable floor space. Choose the smallest system that can support the intended fish load responsibly, not the largest tank that physically fits.

Tank Shape Matters

A livewell should accommodate fish without forcing them into an unsuitable position.

Longer fish generally need a tank with adequate horizontal room. A deep but very short tank may provide the advertised gallons without providing useful space for the intended species.

Useful tank features include:

  • Smooth interior surfaces

  • Rounded internal corners

  • Protected plumbing fittings

  • Secure lid

  • Easy access for inspection

  • Complete drainage

  • A shape that discourages fish from becoming trapped

  • Enough opening size for safe handling

Avoid sharp fasteners, exposed pump screens, and rough seams that can injure fish.

The lid should remain secure while the boat is moving but provide ventilation or sealing as required by the specific system.

Portable Livewells

A portable livewell can be made from a purpose-built container, cooler-style tank, or removable bait system. It is often the most practical option for a small jon boat used for several activities.

Advantages include:

  • No permanent hull modification

  • Lower initial installation complexity

  • Easy removal when not fishing

  • Flexible placement

  • Easier cleaning

  • Ability to inspect all plumbing

Potential disadvantages include:

  • Reduced floor space

  • Movement if not secured

  • Visible hoses and wiring

  • Limited tank shape

  • Need to fill or drain manually on some systems

A portable tank must be restrained in every direction. Water creates strong dynamic loads as the boat accelerates, stops, turns, or crosses wakes.

Do not rely on the tank’s weight to hold it in place.

Built-In Livewells

A built-in livewell can provide a cleaner layout and more permanent plumbing. It may be integrated into a bench, deck, or storage structure.

A properly planned built-in system can offer:

  • Better use of available space

  • Protected plumbing

  • Secure mounting

  • Permanent electrical controls

  • A finished fishing layout

  • Easier filling and draining

It also requires more planning. Hidden leaks, inaccessible pumps, trapped water, and poor drainage can become difficult to repair after the floor is installed.

A custom livewell is best incorporated into the boat design before fabrication. Black Series Marine’s 12 ft aluminum jon boat supports custom configuration options that can include a livewell or fishing deck, along with storage, seating, and other layout choices.

Place the Livewell Low and Near the Center

A full livewell is one of the heaviest concentrated loads commonly added to a jon boat.

The best position is generally:

  • Low in the hull

  • Close to the centerline

  • Supported by suitable structure

  • Accessible for cleaning

  • Clear of passenger movement

  • Compatible with plumbing routes

  • Balanced against the motor, battery, and fuel tank

A stern-mounted livewell can add to the weight of the outboard, fuel tank, and starting battery. This may reduce transom freeboard and cause the bow to rise during acceleration.

A tank mounted too far forward may create bow-heavy handling and require longer plumbing runs.

Evaluate the complete boat rather than positioning the tank solely where empty floor space happens to exist.

Account for Free-Surface Effect

Water can move from side to side inside a partially filled tank. This moving load can make a small boat feel less stable.

A secure lid does not prevent the water itself from shifting.

Tank shape, internal baffles, fill level, and placement influence the effect. Long or wide tanks may benefit from properly designed internal control features.

Never add an improvised baffle with sharp edges, incompatible adhesive, or material that can trap fish. Use a tank designed for marine livewell service or have the system engineered as part of the boat layout.

Fill Pump Systems

A fill pump brings outside water into the livewell. The pickup may use a through-hull fitting, transom-mounted intake, or another manufacturer-approved arrangement.

The pump must supply enough water for the tank and fish load without creating excessive current inside the livewell.

When selecting a fill pump, consider:

  • Rated flow

  • Actual lift height

  • Hose length

  • Fitting restrictions

  • Intake-screen design

  • Electrical demand

  • Freshwater or saltwater compatibility

  • Service access

  • Ability to prevent backflow

Published pump capacity is normally measured under controlled conditions. Output decreases when water must travel through long hose, vertical lift, elbows, valves, or restricted fittings.

Do not drill an intake through an aluminum hull without manufacturer approval. The location, fitting material, sealant, structural reinforcement, and corrosion isolation must all be correct.

Recirculation Systems

A recirculation pump draws water from the livewell and returns it through a spray head or directional fitting.

Recirculation can help when:

  • The boat is moving too quickly for reliable filling

  • Outside water quality is poor

  • The pickup is out of the water

  • The operator wants to retain treated or temperature-controlled water

  • Continuous water exchange is impractical

Recirculation does not automatically restore water quality. Fish still consume oxygen and produce waste. Water may require periodic replacement even when it is moving visibly.

A system that can switch between fresh-water exchange and recirculation provides flexibility, but additional valves and hoses create more maintenance points.

Aeration and Oxygenation

Water movement can improve gas exchange, but the effectiveness depends on how the return water enters the tank.

A return fitting may:

  • Spray water across the surface

  • Direct flow around the tank

  • Draw air into the stream

  • Create bubbles through a separate aerator

The correct arrangement depends on tank shape, fish load, pump output, and water temperature.

Excessively forceful flow can exhaust small bait or repeatedly push fish against the tank. Too little movement can leave poorly circulated areas.

Observe fish behavior and water condition rather than assuming that visible bubbles prove the system is adequate.

Overflow and Drain Plumbing

A livewell needs a controlled way to limit water level and drain after use.

Common arrangements include:

  • Standpipe overflow

  • High-level overflow fitting

  • Separate bottom drain

  • Pump-out system

  • Removable drain plug

The overflow must carry incoming water away at least as quickly as the fill system supplies it. Otherwise, water can enter the boat around the lid or fittings.

Drain and overflow outlets should:

  • Remain above the loaded waterline where required

  • Avoid creating a siphon

  • Discharge clear of passengers

  • Use the specified hose diameter

  • Remain accessible for inspection

  • Avoid interference with trailer bunks

  • Be protected from clogging

Do not reduce hose size to simplify routing. A restricted overflow can cause the tank to flood the boat even when the pump is working normally.

Preventing Backflow

Poorly placed outlets can allow outside water to enter the livewell or boat when the pump is off.

Backflow risk changes with:

  • Passenger movement

  • Boat trim

  • Acceleration

  • Reverse operation

  • Wave action

  • Tank location

  • Outlet height

A rising hose loop, vented loop, valve, or other control may be required depending on the installation.

Valves must remain accessible and clearly labeled. A valve hidden beneath a permanent floor is difficult to inspect and easy to forget.

Use only fittings and methods approved for the pump, tank, and boat configuration.

Electrical Wiring

Livewell pumps operate in a wet environment and may run for long periods.

Use:

  • Marine-grade tinned copper wire

  • Correct wire gauge for current and circuit length

  • Proper fuse or circuit breaker

  • Sealed heat-shrink connections

  • Corrosion-resistant terminals

  • Secure cable supports

  • A clearly labeled switch

Place circuit protection close to the positive power source. Do not install an oversized fuse to prevent nuisance opening.

Run a dedicated negative conductor back to the electrical system. Do not use the aluminum hull as the return path.

Keep connections above the normal water level whenever possible and protect wiring from sharp panel edges.

Battery Capacity

A livewell pump, recirculation pump, fish finder, lights, and bilge pump may all operate from the same accessory battery.

Estimate the combined current draw and expected operating time before selecting the battery. Include reserve capacity for critical equipment.

Cycling pumps with timers can reduce electrical use in appropriate conditions, but the cycle must still maintain suitable water quality. Hot weather, crowded tanks, and sensitive bait may require more frequent operation.

Begin each trip with a fully charged battery. Do not assume that a short outboard run will restore the energy used during a full day of pumping.

Installation in an Aluminum Boat

Every hole, fastener, and fitting added to an aluminum hull deserves attention.

Avoid:

  • Drilling through the bottom

  • Cutting structural ribs

  • Removing flotation material

  • Mounting pumps where they cannot be serviced

  • Using incompatible metal fittings

  • Leaving raw holes unsealed

  • Trapping water between the tank and hull

  • Routing hoses where trailer bunks can crush them

Stainless hardware can contribute to galvanic corrosion when it contacts aluminum in a wet environment. Use the boat manufacturer’s approved isolation, sealing, and fastening methods.

Design access before installing the tank. Pumps, hose clamps, valves, wiring, and drains will eventually need inspection or replacement.

Livewell Insulation

Insulation can help slow water-temperature changes, especially when the tank is exposed to direct sunlight.

A light-colored exterior, shaded placement, and insulated walls may reduce heat gain. However, insulation must not trap water against the aluminum hull or conceal leaking fittings.

Do not add ordinary building insulation without checking its water absorption, chemical compatibility, and behavior in a marine environment.

If cooling is needed, make gradual changes and monitor water condition. Sudden temperature differences can stress fish.

Avoid adding untreated tap water, melting ice of unknown composition, or unapproved chemicals directly to the livewell.

Secure the Tank for Road Travel

A permanent livewell should be drained before towing unless the boat and trailer manufacturers explicitly approve transport with water aboard.

Transporting a full tank:

  • Adds substantial weight

  • Changes tongue weight

  • Loads tank mounts

  • Allows water to surge

  • Increases hull and trailer stress

  • Reduces remaining payload

Drain the tank completely, including low sections of hose and pump housings where practical.

The Black Series Marine aluminum boat trailer must be matched to the boat’s complete loaded configuration. Permanent livewell structure still counts toward trailer payload even when the tank is empty.

Cleaning the Livewell

Fish waste, bait residue, scales, algae, and standing water can create odors and block pumps.

After use:

  1. Drain the tank completely.

  2. Remove fish, bait, and debris.

  3. Rinse the tank and plumbing.

  4. Clean the intake screen.

  5. Inspect overflow and drain fittings.

  6. Use only cleaning products suitable for the tank and intended use.

  7. Rinse away all cleaner residue.

  8. Leave the lid open until the tank is dry.

Avoid cleaners that leave harmful residue for the next fish load or react with aluminum, seals, hoses, or adhesives.

Periodically remove accessible hoses to check for internal buildup.

Saltwater Use

Saltwater increases corrosion risk in pumps, connectors, clamps, and fittings.

After saltwater use:

  • Flush the tank and plumbing with fresh water.

  • Rinse pumps according to their instructions.

  • Inspect electrical terminals.

  • Check metal hose clamps and fasteners.

  • Allow compartments to dry.

  • Look for white corrosion deposits around aluminum.

  • Replace deeply pitted hardware.

Use pumps and fittings specifically rated for the intended environment. A freshwater-only component may fail quickly when exposed repeatedly to salt.

Winterization and Storage

Water left in hoses, pumps, and fittings can freeze and damage the system.

Before freezing weather or long storage:

  • Drain the livewell.

  • Empty low hose sections.

  • Clean and dry the tank.

  • Inspect pumps and valves.

  • Disconnect or maintain the battery appropriately.

  • Leave access points ventilated.

  • Follow component-specific winterization instructions.

Do not fill the plumbing with an automotive product that may be harmful to fish or incompatible with the system.

Common Livewell Mistakes

Avoid these frequent errors:

  • Choosing gallons without calculating full-water weight

  • Mounting the tank wherever space is available

  • Concentrating the system at the stern

  • Using a tank too short for the target fish

  • Installing an undersized overflow hose

  • Assuming recirculation always replaces fresh water

  • Drilling through the hull without approval

  • Hiding pumps beneath inaccessible flooring

  • Using the aluminum hull as an electrical return

  • Running wiring without correct circuit protection

  • Ignoring backflow and siphoning

  • Towing with the livewell full

  • Leaving bait and debris inside the tank

  • Mixing incompatible metals

  • Removing structural or flotation components to create space

Frequently Asked Questions

What size livewell does a jon boat need?

Size depends on the target species, number and size of fish, water temperature, trip duration, and available boat capacity. Calculate the full-water weight before selecting a tank.

How much does a full livewell weigh?

Fresh water weighs approximately 8.34 pounds per gallon. A 20-gallon tank holds about 167 pounds of water before adding the tank, pumps, plumbing, fish, and mounting structure.

Does a livewell need both a fill pump and an aerator?

Not always, but water exchange and aeration perform different functions. The correct system depends on tank design, fish load, water quality, and operating conditions.

Where should a livewell be placed in a jon boat?

Place it low, close to the centerline, and on adequate structural support. Balance its full weight against the outboard, fuel, batteries, passengers, and other equipment.

Can I tow a jon boat with water in the livewell?

Drain the livewell before towing unless the boat, tank, and trailer manufacturers specifically approve otherwise. Water adds weight, changes trailer balance, and creates strong surging loads.

Final Takeaway

Start with the fish, trip duration, and operating conditions, then select the smallest practical livewell that meets those needs without consuming excessive payload.

For help planning a custom livewell, fishing deck, electrical layout, hull configuration, or matching trailer, contact Black Series Marine.